The original thinking was to build all in release mode so that
there was less overall redundancy between building out the released
binaries and what we need to build for test purposes. The goal was to
minimize compile time.
I don't believe that that holds up any more, especially with the
prior commit explicitly breaking out the separate binary builds
to manage dependency bloat.
In particular, strip-ansi-escapes' dep graph is expanded
by the overall set of enabled crate features when doing an
indiscriminate `cargo build` vs. `cargo build -p strip-ansi-escapes`.
This may help to avoid tripping over whatever is problematic
in https://github.com/wez/wezterm/issues/5074
